Browsing the archives for the tutorial category

Tutorial: Easy Placemat Pillows

19 Comments
Before and After, Crafts, master bedroom, tutorial

The other day I came across these cute yellow placemats at Target.

They reminded me so much of the colors in our master bedroom that I decided to get a couple and turn them into accent pillows!

I’ve seen tutorials on turning placemats into pillows on several other blogs, but here’s how I did it.

Step 1: Iron your placemats

Step 2: With scissors or a seam ripper, take out the stitches in one edge of the placemat

Step 3: Using your favorite polyester filling, stuff the placemat/ pillow cover

Step 4: Close the seam – I chose to hot glue mine shut (sooo easy)

Step 5:  Admire your new pillows!

Here’s a reminder of what our bedroom looked like before our new pillows.

And here it is now!

Of course my girls felt the need to get in on some photos, as usual!

I hope you liked the quick and easy placemat pillow tutorial.  Now go grab some placemats and start stuffing!

I’m linking to The Link Party at Tea Rose Home

Frugal Friday at the Shabby Nest

Remodelaholic’s Anonymous

UPDATE: My tutorial has been featured on the Remodelaholic blog!  I have to say, it has to be one of my favorite blogs for daily inspiration.  If you haven’t checked it out before, I highly recommend it!

Tackling Trim

5 Comments
building, studio, tutorial

In case you didn’t notice when we painted the studio, we snuck some baseboards in on ya between the “during painting” and “after painting” photos.  Well, here’s a run-down of how we pulled that off.

When we first bought Heardmont, Stephen and I decided we’d replace and paint the baseboards as we changed out the flooring and that we’d paint the original wood trim around all the windows and doors to match.  Needless to say, we had never installed any kind of trim before this project, but it was pretty painless. Because we knew we’d be using any extra trim on other rooms in the house eventually, we decided buying in bulk was the way to go.

We picked up 8 – 16 foot long pieces of standard 3.5″ baseboards, some caulk, a miter box and saw, a coping saw, and some nails for our nail gun and then loaded up the Subaru.

First step was to measure the first wall we were trimming and then cut the trim to that same length.

Here’s the miter box in action.  We decided a $10-15 miter box and saw was more cost effective than a $80+ miter saw for our one-room-at-a-time approach to trimming.

Each piece after the first one also had to be coped – that is, cut to fit up against the piece before it with the coping saw.

We installed all of the baseboards by nailing them in place with our pneumatic air gun (on permanent loan from a friend).  We marked the studs ahead of time with blue painters tape so we knew we were nailing into the strongest parts of the wall.

As you can see we were no experts when it came to fitting those corners together, but that’s where caulk came in to save the day!

Now we promise there’s a reason we chose gray caulk over the typical white variety.  It’s because Stephen picked a slightly unconventional color for the trim in this room.  What color did he choose? Stick around for the answer and more progress pics!

A Modest Pegboard-posal

3 Comments
Stephen's, garage, tutorial

Hello readers of welcometoheardmont.com!  I have a story to tell!  And also access to this very soapbox on to which to tell it!  For this is not the singsong of the sweet innocent muse of whom you are accustomed, no!, herein lies a tale quite different, not but because of the content, or the format, and let me lay aside any whispers of a lack of cuteness, because (scroll down!) IT IS THERE.  Nay, Today, the silent voice of the Other is freed, the background is becoming the focus, the slave the master, the last the first!

Because I, Stephen, Today, have been pushed out of the womb of silence, been slapped by the doctor of home improvement, and am for the first time filing my lungs with the sweet air of the Blogosphere!  Yes, it is time for my debut!

IT ALL STARTED as an seemingly uneventful second-trip-of-the-day to Lowe’s (which is not uncommon) for a second tube of white, quick-dry, silicone, completely unrelated to this story caulk.  But while M was occupied in the returns line (again unrelated), I got to my wanders, and came across 2 things: 1) my own brilliant idea, and 2) PEGBOARD!

Ah yes, how satisfying is it to enable an object to fulfill its own exact purpose.  (To analogize the late Mitch Hedburg: “I’d like to see a forklift lift a crate of forks. It would be so… literal.”)

Anyway, the day’s immediate task immediately turned from whatever the heck we were there for the caulk for, to hanging pegboard in the garage!  And since I happen to be a Heardmontee by nature, it is my duty, nay!, Calling!, to document and report.  So we have now arrived at the post of the hour, ah, yes, let’s call it:

“A Modest Pegboard-Posal”

(a.k.a. wordily elaborating on using common and pre-made goods to organize some tools)

After a little procurement and intra-city travel I found myself standing in our newly clean garage with a 48″x48″ sheet of 3/16″ thick pegboard ($7), a “Real Organized 43 Piece Pegboard Organizer” kit ($13), and I gotta tell you, up to this point I had absolutely no idea how I was going to go about this.  The whole point of the pegboard is that it has a 1″x1″ spaced grid of holes that you can hang little hooks from, and in turn hang your tools from the hooks.  This is a great system but it requires the pegboard to float off of the wall at a distance at least big enough so that you can insert the hooks.

So I started to look around the garage and found an old board (it actually was cross beam from our old bed that we didn’t use because they gave us like 20 of them).  I immediately thought “That’ll do.”  The board was hardwood, 2.5″ by 1″ by just over 74″ long, and had some little rivets that I had to remove, but that’s not important.  Then I decided where I wanted to locate the pegboard.  Right, just above the work bench, that makes sense.  Now that I had all the materials and the location, I went about persuading the pegboard onto to the wall as so conveniently outlined in the following 10.5 steps:

1)  I decided the minimum I could get away supporting the pegboard with was 2 horizontal boards at the top and the bottom of the pegboard, so I cut the board in half.  This made two nice boards almost exactly 37″ wide.  Since the pegboard was 48″ wide, I used MATH to figure out that I would need 5.5″ overhang on each side to center the horizontal boards.

2)  I eyeballed the location where I wanted the board to be and marked the bottom right hand corner on the wall.  Don’t over-think this, just figure out a good location and go.

Here.

2.5)  So let me note that the bottom of the bottom board should match the bottom of the pegboard, and the top of the top board should match the top of the pegboard.  Just in case.

3)  I then got out the stud finder and located the studs in the walls, marking them with pencil near the bottom and the top of the pegboard’s future location.  Measure the distance between the studs, it normally should be around 16″.  It’s important to screw your horizontal support boards into the studs in the walls.  Don’t try to use drywall anchors, they don’t agree with pegboards on a lot of issues and that’s last thing you want to have to deal with while you’re building your birdhouse or whatever.

4)  I held the bottom board horizontally with the bottom right corner of the board 5.5″ to the left of where I marked the bottom right corner of the pegboard (MATH, remember?).  I used a level to make sure the board was… level… and then transferred the stud locations from the wall onto the board, and marked the location of the board on the wall.  When you do this be sure to mark which side is up and forward on the board so you don’t install it incorrectly later.

5)  I then held the top board to the bottom board and marked the stud locations on the top board.  This will put the top board approximately directly above the bottom board.  Remember:  don’t over-think this stuff.

6)  Next I drilled holes through the middle of the boards where the studs are to be.  I had found some 3″ drywall screws to use to attach the board to the wall, so I drilled the holds the same diameter as the screws.

7)  I finally attached the bottom board to the wall.  My board ended up having 3 screws in it, so I screwed the right screw into the wall at the location I had marked, leveled the board, and screwed the left and center screws in.  Easy right?

The result of steps 3-7. Nice.


8)  Then I figured out the vertical location of the top board.  I already had the studs marked on the wall and on the top board from steps 3 and 5, so I only needed to mark the height.  At each stud I measured 48″ from the bottom of the bottom board.  This height should be the top of the top board.  I marked the height and repeated step 7 for the top board.

9)  Now we have the pegboard support up!  Celebrate, the difficult part is over!  All that is left is to hang the pegboard!  I dry-fit the pegboard onto the supports by hanging it on some finishing nails, just to get it into the correct position (remember: top and bottom of pegboard are to be flush with the top and bottom of the supports, and in my case I had a 5.5″ overlap of the pegboard on the supports).  The final step is to screw the pegboard onto the supports.  I used 1-5/8″ deck screws (because I had some laying around), 5 of them each on the top and bottom, spaced approximately equally over the support boards (again, don’t over-think it).  Be sure to screw through the pegboard material, and not through the holes in the pegboard!

Temporary anchor and permanent anchor.

10)  Congratulations, everybody!  Our pegboard is complete!  Now comes the fruit of our labor – ORGANIZING!  Oh man, there’s nothing like getting to sort through all that crap you’ve been throwing in your tired old toolbox for the last 5 years.  But since that doesn’t technically pertain to hanging pegboard, I will now retire the use of numbered steps.

Heck yes it's level.

Now a quick montage of me organizing my tools:

Oh look some hooks.

I put the hooks on the pegboard.

Oh no that's a lot of tools I hope there is enough hooks.

Turns out there was.

The pegboard is done, the tools are up, so now the party can begin.  And don’t worry my edge-of-the-seat sitting reader, I won’t shy from my promise of cuteness.  For your cute-tainment, I present one Miss Tina B. Heard, circa 2005.

Tina, Circa 2005

Awwwww.

Tutorial: DIY Curtains from a Bed Sheet

15 Comments
Before and After, dining room, tutorial

* UPDATE – Comments are working again!  Thanks hubby :)  Let the comments fly! *

Wow!  I did not intend on being away for so long, but Stephen and I both came down with strep throat on Monday and we’ve been out for the count!

Luckily I was able to make a decision and attack our dining room curtains since the last time I posted.  THANK YOU to everyone who weighed in on our Dining Room Curtain Dilemma last week.  You ladies have such good ideas and really got me thinking on other ways to improve our space.

So, without further ado, the winning curtain fabric was….

The green floral print!

The vote was pretty evenly split, but we just couldn’t stop ourselves from loving this fun springy floral, especially for this time of year.  The best part is these were made from a $10 set of sheets and I still have fabric left over to use for our kitchen window treatment!  SCORE :)

Here’s a little tutorial I whipped up to show how I made these curtains from a flat sheet.  It really couldn’t have been simpler and took practically no time at all!

Tutorial: Turning a Flat Sheet into Two Curtains

Supplies:

1 flat sheet, full size
scissors
iron
sewing machine & thread (or an iron & hem tape)
glue gun
2″ wide white ribbon

Step 1:

Fold your flat sheet in half lengthwise, and cut along the fold.
You will end up with 2 panels, each as long as the original sheet.

If your panel is long enough you can fold over the edge you see here to make a pocket for your curtain rod.  I didn’t have enough length to do that, but you could – I’m just sayin’.

Step 2:

Iron both panels.  Then, fold over the edge you just cut 2 times and iron flat.
This is the edge you will sew to keep the fabric from fraying.

For a NO SEW version, you could also iron this hem down with hem tape.

Step 3:

Sew your hem.

Step 4:

Cut 6 strips from your ribbon, approximately 3.5″ long, and lay them evenly across the top of your panel.

These will be the tabs for the back of your curtain.  You may need more or fewer, depending on how wide your curtain is.  You can also make your ribbon strips longer, depending on how thick your curtain rod is.

Step 5:

Hot glue the top and bottom of the ribbon strips to the panel.
I decided to glue the bottom of mine 3″ from the top of the strip to make them a little more “loopy.”

Step 6:

Hang your new curtains (preferably on a SWEET $10 curtain rod from Big Lots – Ok, ok I love you again, Big Lots)

Here’s a view of what those ribbon tabs look like from the back:

And finally, the finished product!

What do you think?  Easy, right?

Thanks again to all who offered advice on these babies.  Quite a few of you suggested we keep the drop cloths for a more winter-y alternative, which we plan on doing.  I’ll also be on the lookout for some art or photos to replace our dark art on the far wall.  Any suggestions? I’m thinking thicker white mats to start…

Also, I may be crazy, but I’m just DYING to paint this room white.

Stephen’s response?

“You paint everything white!”
:)

I’m linking to:

Frugal Friday at The Shabby Nest

Remodelaholic’s Anonymous Meeting

I Made It Without My Hubby @ Shanty2Chic

Metamorphosis Monday @ Between Naps on the Porch

Show and Share Day @ Just a Girl